Bzzzzzz! Up I was at 4am. Okay, there was no alarm, but my internal body clock buzzed after I fell asleep at 7pm the night before. These trains really don’t help with jetlag, but the plus side is that I woke up nice and early to chat with the early-rising locals and train conductors.
As they puffed on cigarettes, the locomotive puffed on fuel, and I puffed on a chilled mixture of diesel and nicotine. Doesn’t sound too pleasant, but this is India, and while my fellow train-mates snoozed away, I was getting my own unique taste of this wild, wild country.