Skylar Givens's Globetrooper News Feed

Skylar Givens How are the plans coming along? I'd like to join.

Todd Hi Skylar, apologies for the lack of updates. I'm heading to Peru this Saturday, then to Argentina a couple of weeks later. I haven't mentioned anything yet because I've been a little unsure of timing.

We're planning to live for 2-3 months in a city called Bariloche, which is pretty mountainous but far south of Aconcagua. We need to train for a desert expedition in May 2011, which is why we tried to find somewhere where we could train *safely* outdoors.

Anyway, we only decided to move to Argentina a couple of days ago, so let me get back to you in the next couple of days. I know we're running out of time, but I have to check the schedule and discuss with Lauren.

How interested are you?

Skylar Givens I'm definitely interested in climbing Aconcagua. I'll either be dead or climbing Aconcagua in the beginning of 2011, haha. Let me know when you get your schedule figured out.

Todd Hey Skylar, sorry again for the big delay. We're actually living in Peru at 3,300m at the moment (didn't quite make it to Argentina). Have you booked Aconcagua? We've started to get much more serious about training, which at 3,300m isn't hard to do. Haven't started training with packs yet. If you haven't booked yet, have you got a guiding company in mind?

Skylar Givens No worries. That's awesome you made the big move to South America! I haven't booked yet but I have 2 guide companies in mind. I was originally going unguided with a group of friends but it doesn't look like they'll be able to make it this time around.

Todd We've been talking to a few guides and one has stood out as being really helpful and knowledgeable. Pretty cheap too compared to the others, so if you're interested, I can send the details. We contacted a few of the big guys, and apart from charging more, they seem more like mountaineering production lines. E.g. they have 6+ trips going this seasons and can't even tell you for sure who's guiding each climb.

Skylar Givens Hey Todd, I'm definitely interested in the details. Could you please PM them to me? Thanks a ton! How are things going in Peru?

Skylar Givens Looks like the total cost. I would expect to pay at least $35,000+ by the time all is said and done.

Todd Hi Bader. It was an estimate of the whole trip, but Skylar has a better idea of costs since he's already booked. We're going to do some research over the next few weeks and put up a blog post comparing costs/inclusions from the major operators.

bader almofawezz hi todd what if someone have a budget less than 10,000$ and want to climb alone is this possible ?

Todd Not legally, due to the cost of the permit. With $10k, I'd probably do a 12-day technical mountaineering course and then climb a peak like Aconcagua, Ama Dablam, etc. Or if you don't need the course, maybe one of the easier 7000m or 8000m peaks. The permits are much cheaper.

bader almofawezz what about the ilegall way how can someone do it ? and after you climb the mountin succsfully do they regester you as a guy who climb mnt everest ?

bader almofawezz i mean do they regester you if you climb it in illegal way

Skylar Givens If you are caught, regardless if you successfully climbed it or not, they will detain you and never allow you to come back to the country. There are government officials at base camp that do check up on things. I know China (Tibet) is especially strict about this. You might look into climbing from the North side as it is significantly cheaper. Not worth the risk in my opinion. Mountain climbing is a patience game. My advice is to wait until you can afford the cost.

mpreihs Mountain climbing, especially Everest, is about rules and about team work. Not about scamming and shortcuts. Bader, perhaps your personality is better suited for something that won't get you in trouble - like sneaking up Everest on your own is sure to do. Check out the train ride around India. Looks like a great trip. Good luck.

bader almofawezz mpreihs its better to keep your opinions and advise to your self either you say somthing usefull here or to zip your mouth . i am very sirious about it my plan was to go with this trip but then i thought about were is the acheivment by going with group and botteld oxgen my plan was to climb Jengish Chokusu in kyrgyzstan but it canceled due to some political problems there right now and whole trip costs 4000$ so my main problem is the lack of mony

mpreihs As Skyler has pointed out, one can approach Mount Everest from the southern, Nepalese side, or from the northern, Tibetan (Chinese) side. Climbing permits issued in China cost around $4,000 and include many support services to Advanced Base Camp. Permits issued in Nepal cost $10,000 and don’t include services at all. However, the northern routes are longer, more dangerous, and much more technical than the southern routes. Your likelihood of summiting from the north is lower and your likelihood of dying on a northern route is higher.
In 2006, a British climber paid a budget, Kathmandu-based trekking company about $7,500 to arrange for a climbing permit, food, and minimal services to Base Camp on the north, Tibetan side of the mountain. He climbed alone, without the aid of a Sherpa or guide, and bought only a couple bottles of oxygen rather than the usual five. He also chose not to rent an emergency radio. No one knows exactly what happened during his climb, but his near lifeless body was found by a succession of descending climbers, who tried but were unable to revive or rescue him. Tragically, his death on the Northeast Ridge was only one of eleven deaths on Mount Everest in 2006, making it the second most deadly spring season on record.
Can it be done inexpensively and solo? Yes.
However, the chances of a successful summit are quite low.
It's a fact. If you want to increase your chances of a successful summit of Everest, it's going to be expensive.

Todd You're talking about David Sharpe right? It was interesting to read everyone's different version of 2006 and watch the Himex television series (can't remember the name). On one hand, it's unthinkable to leave someone like that. But then it's unthinkable to be so ill-prepared. It reminded me of these leaked video tapes of the wars in Iraq and Afg. When you actually see people indiscriminately killing each other, it reminds you that war is brutal. I think 2006 on Everest was similar in that it showed mountaineering (especially on Everest) isn't always pretty.

mpreihs Yes, That's who I was referring to. So may theories and conjecture as to what happened that day on the mountain. Without a doubt, a huge tragedy. The bottom line - ill prepared and a bit of bad luck yields pretty ugly results on the mountain.

Todd I may be wrong, but from memory, you have to have an approved guide on Kili. Most of the guiding companies will do bare-bones trips with a single guide and very limited supplies. Try teamkilimanjaro.com if interested.

Zoracle yes, you definitely have to have a guide on Kili and I am planning on getting one, just figuring out what dates work best still

Skylar Givens You're right. From SummitPost: "To help the economy guides and porters are required on the mountain" http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/150202/kilimanjaro.html Apparently hiring all of the guides and porters for an expedition costs 1000 or less.

Skylar Givens It's completely possible. Start climbing/hiking a few times a week with a weighted pack. Find a local group that does frequent trips and can show you the ropes. Run or bike everyday for cardio. Also, it is a good idea to start saving... a guided Everest expedition will run you anywhere from $30,000 to $75,000 or more. "Freedom of the Hills" is a great book to read. Here's a great overview of climbing Everest and how to make it happen: http://www.mounteverest.net/expguide/dream.htm

iot Yea?? Woot.. Man, this is a big boost to morale

Todd Skylar: when are you planning Aconcagua and Denali? Earlier in 2011 or later?

Skylar Givens Aconcagua in January and Denali May-June.

Skylar Givens I am climbing Rainier on July 9th-11th if anybody lives nearby and would like to join. I'm based just a short while north of Seattle.

Jessi Im in spokane that would be awesome

Skylar Givens Hey Jessi, shoot me an email: skylargivens [at] gmail [dot] com